Greetings from Washington! After a pretty smooth flight we landed in DC early Saturday afternoon, and made it to our hotel in Dupont Circle – around a mile from the White House – fairly easily. Later the same day, we took a wander down to check out the White House. It is quite weird to see a building in real-life that you have seen countless times on the news, in films, etc. as it looks exactly as you know it does. We have no idea of whether Barack was at home at the time but we didn’t catch a glimpse!Continue reading
I write this final entry as we sit in our final hotel of this trip – a hotel room housed within a concrete wigwam! It is quite something.
The last few days have been as packed as ever. We crossed into Arizona a couple of days ago and visited the beautiful Painted Desert (so called because of its layers of different coloured rocks and hills) and the Petrified Forest, in which wood has quite literally petrified over millions of years and is now completely rock. We stayed in Williams, which is kind of a gateway to the Grand Canyon and as such is seemingly a bit more prosperous than some of the places we’ve stayed. It had lots of character and seemed very vibrant – we even got an unexpected tour of a former brothel whilst there! Stuffed from two hearty meals, we forwent an eat-out meal that night and instead grabbed a microwave meal from a local Safeway, where we met a guy who claimed to have “messed about with the SAS” in England a few years ago but couldn’t remember where he was based, eventually deciding that he worked in a base in Heathrow(!) Far be it for me to doubt his story but considering the SAS are highly trained individuals who have to remember streams of information at any given time, it’s unlikely a former SAS member would forget where he was based, much less utilise his training and exceptional skills by spending his Wednesday night serving customers in a supermarket…
Onto Friday where we did a nice long stretch of original Route 66, culminating in a popular gift shop called Hackberry General Store and at Lake Havasu, whose biggest attraction is that they have the very London Bridge that spanned the Thames right before the current London Bridge was built. It was sold and shipped over brick-by-brick in the early 70s. It is bizarre in that this ornate bridge is totally out of character with American architecture, yet it actually works pretty well as a centrepiece to this place. We also stopped in at Mr D’z, a highly recommended restaurant that did great food but also amazing milkshakes – some of the best I’ve ever tasted, and a strawberry milkshake that had actually seen a strawberry at some point in its life, as opposed to the artificial flavours you usually get.
Today we’ve encountered the worst weather of the trip, and in fact had to abandon one visit (to a Bottle Tree Ranch, basically some guy’s back garden in which he has collected a load of bottles and put them on poles to make them look like trees) because of the torrential downpour. Here in San Bernadino, the drainage system has basically fallen over with the sheer amount of rain, and most of the roads have large amounts of flooding as a result. We even had some sleet! Tomorrow we head into Los Angeles, where hopefully the weather will pick up, and finally on to the end of the road at Santa Monica pier.
And so ends our trip, almost. It has been fantastic and totally unlike anything I’ve ever done before. Every meal has ranged from good to excellent – we definitely haven’t eaten a bad meal out here. We’ve seen incredible sights that range from the sublime to the ridiculous; from wonderful natural sights to the hobbywork of some crazy bastard in his backyard. Much of original Route 66 is now overgrown and impassable, so the interstates provide an approximate route. Some of it is really well-signed; at other times, we have been lead into dead-ends, national parks, and impenetrable dirt tracks by dodgy, inaccurate or simply missing signage. We have driven through eight states and have frankly seen more of America than most Americans have. We have met people who are so knowledgeable about Route 66 and its history that they could talk to us for hours, and people who don’t know a thing outside their own town. We have been asked what country England is in, mistaken for Australians, and asked if we have kangaroos in our back yards. We’ve encountered staff who have genuinely gone out of their way to please, and staff for whom actually doing their job is a massive inconvenience. All in all, a fantastic trip, and one I would heartily recommend to anyone considering it! Thanks for reading 🙂
We left Oklahoma City and were on our way to Texas early on Sunday morning. Our next stop was Amarillo, which of course meant listening to THAT song a couple of times. In Amarillo there is the Big Texan Steak House, which basically offers a 72oz steak and a tonne of sides for free, provided you can eat it within one hour. It has been featured on Man Vs Food, but almost a stone of steak is way too much for either of us so we took to the all-you-can-eat steak buffet instead. Amarillo also homes Cadillac Ranch, where some eccentric millionaire took 10 Cadillacs and buried them nose first into the ground. People are allowed to go up to them with spray paint cans and basically graffiti them, which is exactly what around 20 people were doing when we got there. As a result, the Cadillacs are ever changing and we saw one girl graffiti her name onto one of the Cadillacs, only to find that 15 minutes later others had graffitied over it and it could barely be made out any more. Bizarre, unique and very Route 66.
Speaking of bizarre, our journey to Amarillo took us via a museum largely dedicated to barbed wire (and we managed to spend an hour in it!), a water tower that is leaning like the Tower of Pisa, and a giant 200-foot cross signalling a church in a small town called Groom.
On Monday, we headed further along the route and crossed the landmark midway point – 1,139 miles to go! We then crossed another border into New Mexico – this one involved a timezone change – and stayed the night in Tucumcari at the Blue Swallow Motel, which was awesome: neon lights, family-owned, friendly atmosphere and very Route 66. A world away from the Econolodge we’ve stayed in with paper thin walls and a screaming baby on one side and a way too loud TV on the other! Then today we have travelled to Santa Fe, which is a beautiful city comprising plenty of Adobe and Adobe-style buildings. It’s hard to describe it without pictures, so I will upload some soon.
We have now made it to Gallup, still in New Mexico, where we are about to find somewhere to eat.
Our trip across America continues smoothly and we have now entered our fourth (of eight) states that we will be visiting – Oklahoma. Yesterday, we took one of only two planned detours we intend to make from the route, as we headed down to Branson, Missouri, to visit the Ripley’s Believe it or Not emporium that they have there. Basically a collection of oddities and strange things from various places in the world, which was a great way to spend a couple of hours. Whilst Scott was a fan of the tacky, Vegas-esque Branson, with its King Kong replica, its General Lee replicas and the Titanic display, I could very much take it or leave it (I wasn’t hugely fond of Vegas either when I visited). We had originally planned to stay in another Springfield, but with some spare time available and having found absolutely zero worth visiting in Springfield 2, we pressed on.
We soon entered Kansas, our third state. Route 66 only really clips the corner of Kansas, and in total only about 13 miles pass through the state. However , we probably did about 30 in total as we repeatedly failed to find the attraction we were looking for! In the end, we found it – a cool looking Rainbow Bridge that in all honesty probably wasn’t worth the numerous diversions. A few minutes later we crossed into Oklahoma, where like Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz we could safely say that we weren’t in Kansas anymore. We checked into a motel in Miami (not THE Miami), Oklahoma. Also like Dorothy, we soon found our scarecrow needing a brain from the wizard as the guy on the desk first offered us a “five dollar discount” which bought our room down from $64.99 to $60.99 (hmm!) and then, after looking at a computer screen for a couple of minutes, asked me what country England was in! When we asked if the room had Wi-Fi, our Forest Gump replied yes, but then failed to tell us it needed a password so we had to go back and see him AGAIN to get this. It’s a good job we don’t have to tip desk clerks.
This evening we were treated to a very interesting and very comprehensive tour of Oklahoma City, courtesy of our good friend Jen who works in the English department but who was born and bred in OKC and who was out here visiting home for the Easter hols. Was lovely (and strange!) to see her and we also saw parts of OKC that we simply wouldn’t have dreamed of seeing by ourselves. The Oklahoma City Memorial was quite something: a tribute to those killed in the bombing of the Federal State building in 1995, it was a very serene, nicely done tribute where each person who died has an inscribed chair, situated in a position that represents where they would have been in the building at the time of the explosion. There are also some smaller chairs that represent the children who were in the nursery in the building at the time also.
We have now checked into our hotel with 1,109 miles clocked up so far, and somewhere in the region of 1,500 left to do. Amarillo is the next stop, and I’ll try and update again from the halfway point.